SPOTLIGHT: Mr Sam McKnight

Words - Tajinder Hayer

The Maestro Behind Iconic Hair

Referred to as “the hairdresser’s hairdresser,” Sam McKnight’s career spans nearly five decades, characterised by an extraordinary body of work in catwalks, editorials, and advertising campaigns for fashion giants such as Chanel, Fendi, Balmain, Burberry, and Tom Ford. With over 100 British Vogue covers to his name, McKnight has become a luminary in the hairstyling world, creating looks that have defined eras and inspired countless stylists. In this exclusive feature, we delve into McKnight’s journey, his experiences, and his revolutionary brand, Hair by Sam McKnight.

A Legendary Career

McKnight's journey into hairstyling began at London’s renowned Molton Brown salon. "I’ve always loved to make hair look and feel real, an exaggerated version but real nonetheless," he recalls. His formative years at Molton Brown taught him to work with his hands, a technique that would become a hallmark of his approach. "Thinking about it, I’m not afraid to get my hands in, create some imperfection so hair feels effortless."

McKnight’s career is a testament to versatility and innovation. From crafting looks for the first music videos like Billy Joel’s Uptown Girl to shaping the hairstyles of the supermodels in the 80s, his influence is unparalleled. "I have an incredible career; it's going on 50 years! It's been varied, from working on the first music videos to the rise of the Supermodels, to working with Princess Diana," he shares. His collaborations with visionary designers such as Karl Lagerfeld and Vivienne Westwood, as well as iconic photographers like Richard Avedon and Juergen Teller, have cemented his status as a trailblazer.

Sam McKnight backstage at Chanel with Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid

The Princess Diana Effect

One of McKnight’s most memorable collaborations was with the late Princess Diana. It was during a photoshoot with Patrick Demarchelier in London that McKnight first met her. "We didn’t know Princess Diana was coming. Next thing I know, this tall leggy blonde comes bounding up the stairs and completely sets us at ease," he reminisces. A spontaneous suggestion to cut her hair short led to the iconic slicked-back look that became one of her most famous styles.

Working with Princess Diana for seven years brought McKnight to some profoundly impactful experiences. "I traveled with her to some eye-opening, humbling places. Visiting Mother Teresa in India and refugee camps on the Afghan border was really harrowing. I’d never experienced anything like that before," he says. This partnership not only elevated his career but also offered a unique perspective on the power of hairstyling to shape public image and narrative.

 

Celebrating a Storied Career

In 2016, Somerset House honored McKnight’s contributions with a major exhibition. "It was amazing. It was a bit like seeing your life flash before your eyes," he reflects. The exhibition showcased his impressive range, offering visitors a peek behind the curtain of the hairstyling world and the possibilities within it.

This retrospective led to the release of his book, Hair by Sam McKnight, a comprehensive anthology of his work. "I’ve always kept a very thorough archive. I thought it’s time it was all digitized," he explains. The book, filled with over 40,000 images, is not just a showcase of his talent but also a historical document of fashion and beauty trends over the decades.

Launching Hair by Sam McKnight

In 2017, McKnight launched his own brand, Hair by Sam McKnight, with a mission to bring fashion, glamour, and ease into everyday haircare. "I often hear a negative narrative coming from hair brands and people in my chair. I want to change that," he asserts. The brand offers easy-to-use, foolproof products designed to give instant impact and empower users to explore their hair's potential.

McKnight's philosophy is about making hairstyling accessible and enjoyable. "Hair can be the ultimate mood booster and your greatest accessory. It’s all about giving people the tools to discover the possibilities," he says. His products, such as the Sundaze sea spray and Dressed to Kill pomade, cater to different styles and finishes, encouraging experimentation and self-expression.

Sam McKnight with Kate Moss at The London Olympics closing ceremony in 2012

Sam McKnight with Linda Evangelista

A Visionary’s Perspective

As a Contributing Beauty Editor at British Vogue, McKnight has a unique vantage point on the intersection of hairstyling and fashion. "Hair as well as makeup can infinitely change a look. The mood and power of fashion can be elevated or subdued by the beauty look," he notes. He observes the rapid evolution of trends, especially with the influence of social media platforms like TikTok, and emphasizes the need for the fashion industry to adapt to this digital age.

Expert Tips for Men’s Haircare

McKnight’s brand is not just for women; it offers valuable insights and products for men as well. "One of the most common misconceptions with men’s hair is that its style options are limited. That’s not true," he states. He advises men to experiment with different products to achieve various textures and finishes. "If you love a matte, textured look, try a sea spray like Sundaze. Or for a groomed, polished style, use a pomade such as Dressed to Kill."

Sam McKnight backstage at Moschino SS23

Recognition and Advocacy

Receiving an MBE for his services to the British fashion and beauty industries was a significant honor for McKnight. "The fashion industry has contributed vastly to the British economy and to its culture. It’s important for this to be recognized," he says. As a British Beauty Council Advisory Board Member, McKnight is committed to advocating for hairstylists and ensuring they receive the respect and recognition they deserve.

Continuing the Legacy

Sam McKnight's journey from a London salon to the pinnacle of the fashion world is a testament to his creativity, dedication, and impact. Through his brand and ongoing contributions to the industry, he continues to inspire and empower both professionals and everyday individuals.

In the words of McKnight himself, "Hair can define and elevate a mood. It's all about giving people the tools to discover the possibilities." Indeed, Sam McKnight has given the world not just the tools, but also the inspiration to dream and create.

“Perfect Mess” matt sculpting clay from Hair by Sam McKnight is available from Hair by Sam McKnight