Richard Mille RM023

Is it a watch or jewellery?

Words - Taj Hayer 

Photography - Nicholas Andrews

Shot on location at Watchfinder, Royal Exchange London

When creating the RM023, Richard Mille sought to create a watch that evoked the dual principles of masculine and feminine. In doing so, they made the first real luxury unisex watch. Elegantly designed, with an asymmetrical layout with appliqué Roman numerals on sapphire with a sculpted crown, the model is highly sophisticated, so much so in fact that it is often the subject of debate around whether it is more suited as a piece of jewellery as opposed to a watch. 

As a watch, it boasts many special features. The calibre RMA02 is an automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, seconds and date and variable-geometry rotor. It has a power reserve of 55 hours and grade 5 titanium baselplate and bridges which confers great rigidity on the entire assembly as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for perfect functioning. Upping the ante somewhat, the calendar disc of sapphire crystal is treated with non-reflective coating on both sides of the date display and the exclusive design utilised by Richard Mille makes it possible to effectively adapt rewinding of the mainspring to the user’s activity level, in sporting or non-sporting environments.

The case (and the part of the watch that makes it stand apart) was initially the subject of an entire year of research and development. To produce each case, 68 different stamping operations are required for the three main components (bezel, caseband and caseback). The machine tooling process requires 8 days of adjusting the machines for the bezel, 5 days for the caseband and 5 days for the caseback.

From £75,000 and available from Richard Mille at Watchfinder.