Per Gotesson AW20

Words - Taj Hayer 

Photography - Nicholas Andrews

For autumn 2020, Swedish designer Per Gotesson turned a simple pair of jeans into something altogether very different. 

To do this, shapes were twisted and shrined and the fabric was utilised in new ways. A floor length trench coat was created from scraps of fabric in different shades. Aprons were new for the designer, and here there came in red crushed velvet, which was also used on the waistband of jeans. 

Created in collaboration with Patrick Waugh, collages were used to pay tribute to 1960s playwright Joe Orton, who was famous for adorning the walls of his flat with pages torn from library books. That very same flat served as the set for the catwalk presentation, complete with urinals. The collection served to celebrate Orton’s key themes of love and freedom. That crushed velvet appeared throughout the collection, and made baggy trousers more playful than seem anywhere else. 

The extreme and oversized silhouette fits neatly into the menswear mood for autumn, as did the beautiful tailoring and bold use of colour. The real star of the show were the final looks of razor sharp pencils, a homage to the written word. 

Explore further at Per Gotesson.