Oliver Spencer SS20

Words by Edi Adegbola

The Oliver Spencer LFWM SS20 show transported guests to the street markets of Hong Kong via In The Mood For Love - Wong Kar-wai's classic film set in 1960s.

Taking place in Shoreditch's street food den, Dinerama, the venue was decorated with hanging lanterns and hand fans, while the 'frow' consisted of dining benches in amongst the food stalls. Completing the illusion were stalls offering fortune cookies and sweets local to Hong Kong.

As for the collection, Oliver Spencer continued its campaign of masculine elegance with sophisticated, wearable pieces that would look as much as home on the French Riviera as strutting the streets of Shoreditch. And with LFWM mainstays Hu Bing and Richard Biedul leading the charge on the runway, this rang truer than ever.Colours were striking yet subtle, with burnt oranges, teals and the odd pop of red - the clothes neither whisper nor shout, but announce their presence boldly and confidently, almost challenging the observer to dare to resist them.

Proponents of an easy and deconstructed silhouette, Oliver Spencer's SS20 materials included seersucker and jersey, while tailoring was lightweight and roomy, making wearing a suit look as amenable as slipping on a t-shirt.

Checks and stripes were the patterns du jour, once again, unobtrusive yet eye-catching - especially the check shirt, trousers and jacket combo, or the Breton striped shorts and sweatshirt.

With slicked back hair or crew cuts, the models wore camp collars spread open on top of blazer lapels, while others accessorised with neckerchiefs and lightweight scarves for a pop of refinement.

Eschewing the trend for short shorts seen in other collections, shorts were knee-length and spacious, while trousers were loose and cropped, showing a clear disdain for socks as each model's ankles were on show.

For The Rakish Gent, standouts were the burnt orange short-sleeved shirt or the olive green collarless jacket - perfect summer pieces.

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