FEATURES: Reimagining KENT & CURWEN for today

Akmal Shaukat in conversation with Daniel Kearns

Photography – Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca

Chief Creative Officer - Daniel Kearns

Words & Art Direction – Akmal Shaukat

Models – Trystan Crusoe at Another Mother and Long Li at Storm Models

All clothing - KENT & CURWEN Fall 2024 Collection

Akmal Shaukat sits down with Daniel Kearns, Chief Creative Officer of KENT & CURWEN to explore the brand’s evolution from its roots in uniform-making to a symbol of individuality and rebellion. In an exclusive interview and editorial story for The Rakish Gent, they discuss how British icons, modern reinterpretations of heritage symbols, and London’s vibrant street culture shape the collection’s narrative. From bold colours to unexpected proportions, Kearns shares how the brand bridges tradition and innovation, making KENT & CURWEN a voice for the youth of today.

Daniel, KENT & CURWEN has roots as a maker of uniforms—once a symbol of belonging, now often repurposed as a statement of individuality. How does this collection play into that paradox? Are you crafting uniforms for the rebels now?

 This paradox has always been an integral part of British fashion, taking uniform staples and making them into symbols and statements of a new generation or simply individuality. I wanted to show that in the collection. We all add our individual nuances to a uniform to make it our own, to stand out. Walking through London you see this all around you whether it’s school uniforms or sports uniforms or uniforms of a fashion tribe. London has a great cross section of this going about its daily life that I find very inspiring. We all recognise these codes and how that individual has twisted them. 

“We all add our individual nuances to a uniform to make it our own, to stand out.”

 You've mentioned British icons like Johnny Rotten, Cecil Beaton's Bright Young Things, and Princess Anne as influences. Each of these figures challenged conventions in unique ways. How do they each resonate with the collection's vision?

 Well John Lydon made the school blazer or the boating jacket his own and made it a symbol of punk. Cecil Beaton like Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell and the other Bloomsbury set rebelled against dress etiquette as Charlie Porter described in his book Bring No Clothes. Princess Anne’s boyish dress sense always had an understated rebellious touch to her horsey establishment style. 

The English Rose and Three Lions, updated and redrawn—there’s a sense of heritage clashing with the avant-garde here. What does the reimagining of these symbols say about British style today?

 They are timeless aren’t they, forever symbols of England and the history they stand for. Giving them a modern twist doesn’t change that I think just makes them feel more relevant or exciting to place on the collection. 

From Ivy League prep to punk rebellion, KENT & CURWEN’s aesthetic has travelled through a fascinating range of cultural scenes. How does this collection bridge the old-world collegiate with a distinctly British edge?

Well it’s that knowing isn’t it, when you walk around London you sense the depth of history, its weight and meaning but you also see the vibrancy of youth. The excitement and the anticipation of discovering what’s to come. New preppy is the clash of those two things, something we know and we always have known, the archetypes and something we are just discovering and playing with, the new! That creates our unique identity. 

This season’s campaign has been described as “fleeting moments” of London. What is it about London’s atmosphere or street culture that you think brings this collection to life?

 London is a melting pot of culture, style, history and meaning. I’m always surprised and inspired when I walk around London. It’s when someone passes you by and you have to double take or you want to take in what they are wearing but don’t want to be noticed doing it! People going about their life but dressed with attitude that’s what I think London has always had. People that wear their heart on their sleeve. 

Glen Luchford’s photography for this campaign captures “unexpected encounters” in London. What was it like collaborating with Luchford, and what vision did he bring to the collection?

I’m a huge admirer of Glen’s work and vision. He was so easy going and no fuss, I knew he could bring a young energy and quality to the brand and I think we had the same vision for what we wanted the images to come out like. He grew up around Notting Hill and I’ve lived around there on and off since college so we were talking the same language and that was what came out in the photos I think. There’s a really ease to them and a sense of a group of young Londoners.

You’ve spoken about “unexpected proportions and jolts of colour” that redefine classic KENT & CURWEN motifs. Can you give us an example of a piece or look from the collection that encapsulates this modern reinterpretation?

When I did KC before it was a worn in look about authenticity and had a vintage feeling to it, which was very intentional. Now it’s about dialling up the colour and adding a freshness. Not being scared of bright colours like pinks and emerald green. I like the playfulness of the mix and match approach to the collection. It feels more expressive. 

KENT & CURWEN’s identity has evolved significantly since its early days dressing school and college teams. In an age where “uniforms” now represent individuality as much as conformity, how does this collection reinterpret that tradition for today’s audience?

KENT & CURWEN’s origin was the regiment club tie and the cricket sweater. The archetypes of preppy uniform. So we have reinterpreted those elements. The cricket in punchy colours with mixed yarn trims and the club tie as a signature detail under collars. KC invented preppy and the staple wardrobe we associate with that look and all its connotations so it’s our playground to reinvent in.  

The collection sits “at the intersection of tradition and rebellion.” If you had to sum up this season’s collection in a single phrase, what would that be?

 It's KENT & CURWEN for the London youth of today.

“London is a melting pot of culture, style, history and meaning. I’m always surprised and inspired when I walk around London.”

Daniel, you’ve worked with some of the most iconic names in fashion. How did your experiences prior to KENT & CURWEN shape your approach to this collection? Are there lessons or inspirations you brought forward into this role?

I've been very lucky to work with some of the most inspiring creatives and they have taught me so much. Those experiences always feed into what I do.

You’re known for blending heritage with a modern twist. Were you always drawn to heritage brands, or did something specific draw you into this world of classic British style?

Yes I think I've always loved vintage shopping and storytelling and the authenticity of clothing, it's function and its meaning. I find that very powerful how a certain style of clothing has such weight of importance, connotations and meaning. A garment can express so much and I liked that idea that each garment tells its own story of function, usage, expression and life. A garment can empower us, give us strength and confidence and can protect us. This is very important to me, when I first saw the archive regiment tie books each stripe was from a different club or military constabulary or staff uniform or college. Each one holds so much meaning and is a symbol of something. The same with badges or cricket stripes. Aran sweaters all had their own cable designed for each family so a body lost at sea could be identified. Clothes have such meaning. 

 KENT & CURWEN has such a rich legacy. What aspects of the brand’s history have you felt most compelled to honour, and where have you felt a need to innovate or reinvent?

 KENT & CURWEN really invented the preppy DNA as I mentioned before maybe not as a fashion expression more as a creator of uniform but this inspired the preppy aesthetic that was then picked up by Ralph Lauren and so many others and even Eric Kent himself was an inspiration as he wore his cricket white around Mayfair. I have always loved this aspect and this idea of creating a play on uniform and archetypes but then I like to expand on this story of youth the stories around the clubs, universities and teams we dressed and the reimagining it for today, that's very important that it's modern and I think this part I have had to invent to give it a twist that takes it away from is Burlington arcade origin. 

Every designer has a “signature” – a touch that feels uniquely theirs. How would you describe your own signature approach to menswear, and how does that resonate within this collection?

Nothing fussy!

I think my signature is something that's still wearable but has attention to detail, something that's effortless but well considered. I think my natural style is very British as my references have always been from British culture whether it’s music, art or literature. 

In your opinion, what makes British fashion so unique? Is there a particular sensibility or attitude you see in British design that you work to capture in your own collections?

Yes this is key for me, British fashion has always played with and against British culture which has created the tension that inspires the creativity. Britain as a country with a monarchy and weighted history, clothes and symbols of which have been intertwined with fashion and cultural movements to play off their meaning. 

“I find that very powerful how a certain style of clothing has such weight of importance, connotations and meaning.”

We’ve seen fashion move towards a more narrative-driven approach, where each collection tells a story. How do you see your role as a storyteller through the collections you create?

I think it's important that fashion can help people dream a bit, can tell a story otherwise clothes are just product. The power of the strongest brands is the meaning they have created over years to then have the power to sell a basic with a logo. I think in my role you have to create the want not just the need.

Daniel Kearns, photographed exclusively for The Rakish Gent by Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca

Finally, as someone leading a historic brand in a rapidly evolving industry, what do you see as the future of KENT & CURWEN? How do you envision its place in the fashion landscape over the next decade?

I have great belief in this brand hence I came back! I think there is a real space and desire for this brand in the market and I hope we can transform it into the British preppy brand globally, that's my dream for it.

Explore further at KENT & CURWEN.