New to the schedule for London Fashion Week Mens, was Bianca Saunders, who presented a collection that explored British culture, black identity and hyper-masculinity.

“Gestures” was a considered focus on body language and mannerisms that Saunders observed in films that she made, as well as research from a fellow Royal College of Art contemporary, Paul Maheke and his “Unwritten Handbook” depicting physical portrays of male identity. The research led to observation of movements and the awkwardness that one sometimes feels in their own clothes. Manipulating fabric, Saunders created creases that echo the process of being comfortable. Models partially undressed, was a conscious demonstration of sexuality. 

The small offering was masculine, with subtle hints of femininity. Much of what we saw were the hallmarks of a modern men’s wardrobe - nylon, jersey and cotton shirts. Tops, tight around the chest and loosened up towards the bottom, offer little movement and a more strict aesthetic.

Explore further at Bianca Saunders.