The Rakish Gent

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Alexander McQueen spring summer 2024

A refined simplicity. A focus on cut, proportion and silhouette. A continued exploration of anatomy, now softer, more moulded and curved. Tailoring in traditional wools is constructed with a rounded or a neat, sharp shoulder and a narrow waist. Overcoats, trench coats, parkas, leathers, denim, shirts and shorts worn with knee boots are grounded with utility detailing. Clothing is knotted around the body – apparently seamless.

Ceremonial embroidery and soft appliquéd harnessing are inspired by archive McQueen; three- dimensional hand-crocheted knit and chiaroscuro flowers inspired by Dutch Old Master paintings. An abstract fold print, developed by long-time McQueen collaborator, Simon Ungless, extends into jacquards and embroideries, wrapping the body – the anatomy – within.

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